Quilt top is pressed and all threads clipped. Loose dark threads left on the back of the quilt top can detract from the quilt if they are caught between layers.  Please be sure all seams are secure. If you have a pieced border (flying geese, piano keys etc.) stay stitch the outer edge to avoid stretching and seams opening)

       If your quilt is directional, mark the top of your quilt top and back with a safety pin.  If you have selected a pantograph (all over design) and have a preference, please specify whether you want the pattern to go vertically or horizontally on the quilt. Quilts are loaded on the frame based on the backing seam – this seam is pinned running horizontally  (or parallel to the rollers) to avoid loose floppy areas and possible puckering.  Keep this in mind when selecting a design that is directional.

       It is very important that your top and back are square. This will also have an impact on how the quilting design lays on the quilt. 

       Measure the center of the quilt top vertically. Measure the outside edges vertically. If there is more than a 1" difference, it is possible that your top will have tucks when quilted. Do the same measurements horizontally. The most common reasons for measurement differences are stretched bias edges, mitered corners that leave extra fabric on one or both sides of the miter or blocks that were not all the same size when sewn together.  This can result in small tents or puckers and may cause tucks when quilted. If there is any fullness in your quilt or ruffles in your borders, we will do our best to ease in the fullness, however they may have tucks and pleats after quilting.Make sure your top lies nice and flat - if there's excess fabric in the body - there will be pleats and tucks -- sorry, not everything can be "quilted out"!

       Backings and battings need to be at least 4-6" larger on ALL sides of the quilt. For example, if you have a 60" x 60" quilt top, you will need to supply backing and batting sized to a minimum of 68" x 68". This will supply the needed 4" on all sides of the quilt. Centering a quilt top on a pieced backing is not possible on a longarm machine without pre-basting; and, even then, there is no guarantee it will remain centered due to the way they are loaded and the "draw up factor" involved during the quilting process.  You must specify if you wish to attempt centering on the work order form and the basting fee will also apply. 

       Please make sure backing is cut square also. Use a 90 degree ruler to make sure it is square. If you are seaming the backing, use ½" seam and press seam open.  Do not use the selvedges in the seam—if you must, clip into the selvedge every 12” to release the pressure and prevent excess puckering when the quilt is washed and dried. If you find your backing needs to be made larger (use 6 inches as an example), don't cut two 3 1/2" strips and sew on each side -- it is better to sew the full strip to one side - or slice your backing into 2 pieces and insert this strip to the inside -- this will make for an asymmetrical  backing that won't leave a seam close to a side where you will later add  your binding - you want any seams to be well within your quilt tops edge to reduce that excess bulk in the binding area.  See below for a diagram for correct fabric placement for piecing backing fabric.

       Press and fold each piece neatly and separately if mailing; place on hangers if delivering. Do not baste, tack, pin or fuse your top/back/batting together.  If any pressing is required or threads need to be clipped from the quilt top, additional prep fees will be applied.  Keep in mind that the thread color used to stitch the top will also be in the bobbin so select a backing color that will be appropriate for the thread color selected.

       If you have a pieced batik top, do not use batik for the backing.  The threads are so tightly woven it causes thread shredding and breakage.  Please use a "faux batik" such as fossil fern or Moda marbles or other batik looking fabrics that have the usual thread count found in most quilt fabric. 

 Acceptable battings for use on a longarm:  Hobbs Heirloom Cotton, 80/20 Cotton/Poly, Hobbs Wool,  Warm and Natural, Warm & White, Quilters Dream Poly and Cottons Select weight, Wool—if in doubt, feel free to contact me or your local quilt shop for advice on battings for machine quilting. Your batting choice will also have an impact on the final look and feel of your quilt.

  For a printed copy of these instructions click here.

  For instructions on piecing a quilt back for loading on a longarm quilting machine click here.